In the name of self-care, self-love, and all that jazz, I made myself a 'warm heart' to go with my cold hands. I thought I'd road test it, you know... before I subjected anyone else to it this Valentine's Day!
]]>In the name of self-care, self-love, and all that jazz, I made myself a 'warm heart' to go with my cold hands. I thought I'd road-test it, you know... before I subjected anyone else to it this Valentine's Day! It's great retiring to the knitting and stitching nook with it in the evenings, warming my fingers up in preparation.
I filled the heart shaped pouch with some wholegrain rice and a little dried lavender from my garden. When microwaved for a few seconds it becomes a lovely-smelling hand warmer. Lavender is completely optional, although I love the added aromatherapeutic factor. Other dry grains like wheat, barley or buckwheat can be used instead of rice.
You can download the template by clicking on the --> warm heart template here. Print at 100% scale, actual size. The first page is on a metric grid and the second page is on an imperial grid, so you only have to print one of them, not both. The grid is there to easily trace from the screen if no printer available.
I used two medium weight fabric scraps for the outside (one linen and the other wool) and backed them with calico. Any other medium weight cotton fabric will do instead of calico, and of course you can use whatever you like as the main fabric.
Place the two main pieces of fabric together, right sides facing, and sandwich them between the calico pieces.
Use the template to trace the heart shape with a pen.
Pin around carefully, catching all four layers.
Sew along the traced line with a straight stitch, making sure to leave an opening between the marks and backstitch either side of it.
Trim the fabric all around, leaving the seam allowance a bit wider along the opening.
Notch the seam allowance along the curves (cut out little triangles close to the seam).
Press the seam allowance back on either side along the opening to help retain the heart shape, then turn it right side out and press it flat.
Measure 160g rice (just under 1 cup) and 5g dried lavender (1/4 cup). Adjust these amounts as needed. Do not overfill.
Fill your heart with love todaaaay 🎶... I mean, with rice and lavender!
Pin then sew the opening up by hand with an invisible stitch...
... and your heart-shaped hand warmer is all done!
IMPORTANT NOTE: no more than 40 seconds was needed on a 950W microwave. That's the max power on my microwave at home, but as you know, they really vary, so start with 20 seconds, check then add 10 second increments until desired warmth reached. Use caution and do not overheat!
Please tag with #DDwarmheart and #dhuratadaviespatterns if posting online.
Enjoy and spread the love,
Dhurata x
]]>Are you still sewing and crafting for the holidays? I hope so, because I've got a little project to share with you, especially if you've got lots of small pieces of Liberty tana lawn fabric. Being so fine, this fabric is perfect for this project. The idea is borrowed from the accordion folded paper angels you see everywhere. Using fabric for me means that it will last longer and be kept for years to come, not to mention that it would make a lovely gift.
Both fabrics were from Clothkits, one of my local fabric and haberdashery shops - they stock a large selection of Liberty fabrics, among other lovely things. Imagine the possibilities!
I used:
Liberty tana lawn fabric for the body - 2x 15cm x 30cm
Lightweight cotton chambray fabric for the wings - 2x 15cm x 15cm
Fusible web (mine was bondaweb) - 1x 15cm x30cm and 1x 15cm x 15cm
A 2cm wooden bead and some string (about 45-50cm long)
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Start by cutting the fusible web to size...
...and fuse to the wrong side of one piece of fabric according to manufacturer's instructions.
Trim the excess fabric and peel off the backing paper.
Place this piece upside down on the wrong side of the other piece of fabric and fuse once more. This will bond the two pieces of fabric together, give stability and stop the edges from fraying.
Trim again and repeat this process for the body.
You will have two one bonded fabric piece for the body and one for the wings.
Fold and press each piece as you go along.
Use a hole punch of some sort to make a hole near the top of the body and the centre of the wings through all the layers.
Thread the string through the hole on the body...
...then thread both ends of the string through the hole on the wings.
Tighten the strings and knot together then thread through the bead.
Make one knot on top of the bead to secure it in place and one to secure the ends together.
I used a couple of glue dots to stick the bottom of the wings to the sides of the body, but any craft/fabric glue will do the job.
Hold in place with clips while drying and you're all done.
Isn't it beautiful?!
I hope you enjoy making these. Please tag with #DDlibertyangel if you post on social media - I'd love to see them!
Have a lovely weekend, Dhurata x
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I made a video tutorial on how to make these cute little christmas tree decorations using leftover bias-cut strips of fabric from previous projects and some random beads I'd had for years. It was a fun and welcome distraction. I hope you give them a try and use some of those fabric scraps.
Here's the YouTube video with instructions.
Enjoy, Dhurata : ) x
]]>I've done a little tutorial for you on how to add a drawstring to the elasticated waistband on either Edith or Olive skirt. (click on the names to check out the patterns)
It's an easy detail to add if you'd like to, just follow the steps below before attaching the waistband to the skirt.
Place the waistband piece flat in front of you, wrong side up. First mark the centre front on the waistband piece, then mark the middle lengthwise where the waistband is going to be folded in half, making a cross right in the centre. Mark the seam allowance on the half that's going to be the front of the waistband (pink line at the bottom of the pic). Draw two buttonholes, measuring about 1.25cm (1/2"), about 10cm (4") apart, either side of the centre front line. Make sure they are right in the middle of the space between the centre and seam allowance line.
Fuse a couple of small pieces of interfacing to the buttonhole area to stabilise it. This will especially help if your fabric is lightweight, slippery or stretchy. They should be roughly 4cm (1 and 1/2") square. Transfer the buttonhole markings to the interfacing.
Transfer the markings to the right side of the fabric. I used an awl for this.
Redraw the buttonholes to the right side of the fabric.
Sew the two buttonholes on your sewing machine.
NOTE: If sewing buttonholes is not your favourite thing to do and you'd rather avoid it, you can install two metal eyelets/grommets instead.
Cut them open with a seam ripper, but place a pin at the end so you don't go too far.
Attach the waistband to the skirt and insert the elastic as per the pattern instructions. (see tip on threading wide elastic on my instagram reels) Sew two rows of stitching about 1.25cm (1/2") from either side of the waistband. This will ensure sufficient space in between for the drawstring.
Use anything you like for the drawstring. This is some kind of suede braided cord I've been hoarding for years, no doubt harvested from some RTW garment at some point.
Here's a quick Edith skirt trial I made using a lightweight, bamboo French terry fabric. The drawstring on this is from the same fabric. I cut a thin strip across the grain and pulled it until it rolled. I simply knotted the ends, but I can imagine you can add beads, etc. for added interest. Btw, has the word 'sweatskirt' been invented yet??? Well, you've heard it here first...
NOTE: the pattern worked really well with stretch fabric. I skipped the pockets as I was in a bit of a rush (regretting it already!) and I went down one size to allow for the stretch in the fabric. No other changes apart from using stretch stitches instead during construction. It feels lovely and comfortable and I think it'll be great when the weather is a bit cooler. Now I know that it works, I will definitely be making a summery one in thinner jersey.
This is how it looks when the buttonholes are 10cm (4") apart. You can have them a little closer together if you prefer, although I would not recommend them less than 5cm (2") apart.
Take care and keep creative, Dhurata x
]]>Some of you asked if the belt I wear in the photo with the Edith dress (below) is a part of the pattern. The answer is no, but I did promise to provide it as a free pattern and tutorial here on the blog. So here we go! I hope you enjoy it : )
Download the Quilted Belt free pattern here and follow the tutorial below.
You need no more than 30cm(1/3 yard) of any woven fabric for the front, back and ties, a strip of quilt wadding about 10cm x 110cm (4" x 26-43.5") and the same amount of any lightweight woven fabric for lining. The lining will end up in the inside and never seen so use or repurpose a scrap of anything you like. In fact, I would encourage you to make the whole thing from leftover scraps of fabric.
Note: the sample is made with calico fabric and a contrasting thread for the purpose of this tutorial, although it's perfectly usable so you might very well see me wear it one day.
Sandwich the wadding in between the lining and one of the main pieces of fabric, right sides out (RS=right side, WS=wrong side).
Starting from the centre point, mark parallel quilting lines about 3cm apart (1 and 1/4") across the whole belt.
Sew with a straight stitch, following the marked lines. You can go simple with a matching thread, or go bold with a contrast - totally up to you! You could also add hand-shtitched details or embroidery, which is on my very long to-do list.
Fold the tie pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together...
...and sew the long raw edges with a straight stitch, including one of the short sides. Leave the other short side open for turning.
I always use some long knitting needle to turn the ties right side out, but you can use other methods if you wish.
This is another way of turning the ties. Place a long string inside the folded tie fabric.
Secure the end by backstitching a few times...
...then sew the long edges together while keeping the string inside the fabric, away from the needle.
Pull the string to turn the ties right side out then cut it off.
Press the ties flat with an iron and place one either side of the quilted belt piece. Align the raw end of the tie with the side edge of the belt then pin.
I like to trim the long edges of the backing piece by 2-3mm (1/8") to make it slightly narrower and ensure the backing fabric does not show on the front. Place this on top of the front piece, which has the ties pinned either side, right sides together. Fold the ties neatly in the middle so they don't end up getting stitched when you sew the sides. Pin all around.
Sew with a straight stitch, leaving a 10cm (4") gap on one long side and pivoting at the corners. Trim the corners...
...then pull the ties out to turn the whole belt right side out.
Pull one side out then the other.
Pick the corners out with an awl or large needle.
Sew the opening up by hand using a ladder stitch.
Press the belt flat with an iron and you're all done! Wear it with anything you like, but I do hope you try it with the dress version of Edith pattern - it does seem to instantly elevate it to evening wear!
Enjoy and if you make it and post it on social media, don't forget to tag with #DDquiltedbelt and #dhuratadaviespatterns - would love to see it,
Dhurata x
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Hello everyone,
As promised, here are the details of the easiest sleeve hack on my current favourite Edith top. I swear, each variation I make somehow becomes a favourite!
I used the cuff pattern piece on the Edith pattern to determine the size of the ruffled sleeve piece.
Trace the cuff piece on a larger piece of paper. I used pattern paper here, but you don't have to... although the grid is always useful.
Add an extra half cuff measurement to the width and about 3cm (1 and 3/16") to the length of the ruffle piece. That looked about right amount to me and it's how I did it, but of course you can add as much as you like either side for more gathers or a longer ruffle.
Remember to still cut the fabric on the fold when using this new pattern piece.
Gather one long edge of the ruffle then attach to the armhole. (see the neck ruffle gathering on the Edith instruction booklet). It was easier to do this while laying the garment flat, before sewing the sides, so I could distribute the gathers equally. Finish the seam allowance together and press towards the garment.
You can sew the sides of the garment as normal, including the ruffle, but I thought it would be nice to do a french seam instead. Click here to read the seam finishing blog, if you'd like to learn how. I left the ruffled sleeve unhemmed as I really love the selvedge on this lovely fabric.
I hope you find this useful when planning your new Edith.
Happy sewing, Dhurata x
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Hello everyone,
With the recent release of Edith, the dress, skirt and top sewing pattern, I thought I'd show you in a little more detail how to get that pesky curved hem to sit flat. I'm giving you two of the several methods that can be applied. These would work well and can be achieved on any regular sewing machine.
]]>With the recent release of the Edith sewing pattern, which has a curved hem in two of the options (B and C), I thought I'd show you in a little more detail how to get that pesky curve to sit flat when hemming. I'm giving you two of the several methods that can be applied. These would work well and can be achieved on any regular sewing machine.
METHOD 1:
This is a simple, double-turned hem. Start with freshly pressed fabric and a trimmed edge. The iron is your sewing friend here!
Sew a gathering stitch 6mm (1/4") away from the raw edge of the fabric, do not backstitch and leave the threads long on both ends.
Pull on one of the threads to slightly gather the edge of the fabric around the curves.
Use the gathering stitch line as a guide for turning 6mm (1/4") of the raw edge towards the wrong side of the fabric. You can either do this on an ironing board and press with an iron or if it's easy to crease your fabric, you can just fingerpress as you turn, like I'm doing here.
Turn another 1cm (3/8") and fingerpress again or use an iron.
Pin generously in place.
Stitch close to the first folded edge with a regular straight stitch. Do not stretch the fabric while sewing. You can remove the gathering threads if you like, but if they're not visible and bothering you, it is not necessary.
Give it a good final press with an iron and admire your work.
METHOD 2:
You can also use bias binding as facing to finish a curved hem. This can be store bought (about 1.25cm, 1/2" wide) or made by you. If you make it, it is important that the strips of fabric are cut on the bias (diagonally) and not on the straight grain of the fabric, so the binding can stretch and curve to match the hemline.
Stretch one side of the bias binding while pressing with an iron, forming a gentle curve to match that of the hem.
Use steam on your iron if necessary.
Place along the edge of the fabric, right sides together, matching the curve.
Open one folded edge of the bias binding and pin to the fabric. Stretch the binding a little as you do this, but just enough to keep the other folded edge flat.
Follow the crease line of the binding to sew with a regular straight stitch.
Turn and press the whole bias binding to the wrong side of the fabric.
Pin generously in place.
Sew close to the inner edge of the bias binding with a regular straight stitch. (You can also use an invisible stitch by hand). This is what the wrong side of the hem will look like...
...and this is what the right side of the hem will look like. This method is really lovely and neat looking and can be used to sneakily incorporate fun colours or prints into a garment.
Although, as you can see from this sample, it's important to think about the colour of the binding you are using and how it will look from the right side once sewn. If your main fabric is a little light and sheer, a contrasting bias binding will show.
I hope you will find this post useful when sewing the curved hem on Edith or any other curved hem at all.
Happy sewing,
Dhurata x
]]>If you follow my instagram account, you might have seen that a few days ago I made a dressing gown using The Overlap pattern with a couple of easy hacks - a ruffle around the collar and added length to the bottom. The result is really lovely and added such an element of fun to the garment. Wouldn't this make a wonderful mother's day gift? Just an idea... Below are the details for anyone wanting to try it.
Add 30cm length to the back and front pattern pieces as well as the placket facing piece. This is extremely easy to do thanks to the very simple shape of these pieces.
Extend the back and front straight down at the bottom, then cut the placket facing somewhere in the middle and extend by the same amount.
Cut the original collar piece in half lengthwise and use one half for the narrower collar, which will act as binding for the gathered edge.
Double the other half in length to make the pattern piece for the ruffle and round one of the corners. (Both these fabric pieces will still need to be cut on fold as per the original collar piece!)
Sew the garment as per the pattern instructions until you get to the collar.
Sew two parallel gathering stitches along the raw edge on the ruffle piece. You can see I used the selvage edge of the fabric here so no need to hem, but if you choose not to do this, hem the straight edge first then gather.
Pull two of the tail ends on one side of the fabric to form the gathers. The length of the ruffle when gathered should be 3cm less than the length of the collar piece.
Attach the ruffle to the right side of the garment around the neck opening.
Sew the narrower collar (binding?) in the same way as the original collar on the pattern instructions, but skip the interfacing.
I made size 12UK out of 3m of 150cm wide fabric. That's 50cm more than fabric amount required and more than enough to make this version up to size 14, but you may require additional fabric for larger sizes.
I bought the gorgeous waffle fabric from Lamazi Fabrics and it seems that my love affair with this colour continues.
The Overlap pattern is available in paper and pdf format here.
I hope you enjoy trying this version and don't forget to share if you do,
Dhurata x
]]>Hello all,
It's hard to find time to play when you're an adult, but this time of year always seems like a good excuse and opportunity to do that, so... go on, play a little and forget your troubles!
If you're at all into geometry and live surrounded by fabric, like myself, you'll love this little project. It's great fun to make.
Start by printing the free template here
I printed this at 100% scale on 160gsm paper. Thicker paper would work, too, but any thinner and it might struggle to hold it's shape. This template will give you an ornament that's just under 13cm (5") in height. You can increase/decrease the scale as you wish for different sizes.
Cut out the template and a piece of fabric slightly bigger than the template to use later.
I used the edge shaper end of my Clover point turner to score the lines before folding.
This helps you get those sharp and precise edges. Using a butter knife will get you the same results.
Fold on the scored lines. A roller is a really good tool to get those folds just perfect if you've got one, although finger-pressing will do just fine.
You can see it taking shape already.
Once you've got all the edges scored and folded, place the template flat and brush Mod Podge (or other decoupage glue) to cover the whole outer surface area. You can find this in lots of craft stores.
Place the fabric on top, right side up and press it down well. I used the roller again to flatten away any bubbles.
Turn over and trim the excess fabric.
As the glue dries, make sure to reshape all the edges so they don't dry completely flat again.
Once the fabric is dry and glued to the paper, brush a layer of Mod Podge on top.
Cover the whole surface and leave to dry. This will dry clear.
Again, make sure to reshape the edges as it dries.
Once completely dry, it's ready to be formed into the intended ornament shape. Brush some glue onto the flaps and press the corresponding edges on top. Knot a piece of string to form a loop and place the knot inside the top point of the ornament before glueing the last segment shut. I also put a little bell on the bottom point of one and some beads on the other two. Customise as much as you wish.
You can use tiny pieces of fabric to cover these ornaments as well, instead of one piece that covers the whole thing. It's perfect for using colourful scraps not big enough for anything else. It's what I did with the one on the right down here. I have to say, the plain fabric one was nowhere near as successful as the patterned ones, so i would not recommend it.
Tip: if no fabric available or even desirable, just draw/paint whatever you like on the blank side before folding and glueing it together. Great to do with kids.
I hope you enjoy making these, and if you do please tag with #DDornament on your socials.
Have fun and take care out there, Dhurata x
]]>Hello everyone,
I hope you're all well and keeping busy, safe and most of all entertained!
I forced myself to play with shiny things yesterday afternoon as it's taken me especially long to get into the festive spirit this year. I believe that did the trick!
After a few attempts at various gift ideas I've had brewing in my head, I decided these penny washer pattern weights were the winner. They were such good fun to make and I'm really excited to share this project with you. Apart from being must-have items on your cutting table, these pattern weights would make an excellent gift for your sewing buddies! I mean, just look at this lovely stack of them... and you don't even have to be a sewist yourself to make them - just cut and stick!
I realise some of you use other methods to keep pattern pieces in place when cutting your sewing projects, but I always use weights. If you're in this gang and would like to make these, keep reading to learn how!
Having bought some a while ago, the washers were a little disappointing as they come. I found them neither very tactile or pleasing to the eye. I just had to cover them somehow. I decided to make use of some leatherette fabric scraps I seem to have accumulated over the years, which turned out to be absolutely perfect for this purpose. Leatherette doesn't fray and it's easy to cut, sew, glue, etc. I also tested this idea with real leather scraps and it worked just as well, if not better. I can imagine some nice thick wool felt would work, too.
I knew immediately that I wanted them to be hexagonal and I was pleased, as there's always a danger of overthinking everything around here! My washers were 5cm diameter, but I made a template for 4cm and 6cm wide washers as well for you, just in case. Once I did that, I thought a round template for these three sizes won't hurt either. So you have a few size and shape options.
Click here for the free template! Please print at 100% scale or actual size setting on your printer (not scale to fit).
After picking the shape you prefer and the size to suit your washers, cut out the template as precisely as you can. You then need to cut two pieces of leatherette/leather per washer.
The glue I had available was this HT2 Gütermann textile glue and it worked really well, although I'm sure there are dozens of different types of glue you can use. I'm not a glue expert, so please go with whatever you think it's best. Whichever glue you choose, please follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to use it safely and efficiently, be careful with the surface area you're working on, make sure the room is well ventilated, etc, etc... you get the idea, be safe.
I applied a thin strip of the glue to the wrong side of each fabric piece, a couple of millimetres from the raw edges. This will prevent it from spilling out and looking messy.
I let it rest for a few minutes then sandwiched a washer in between two pieces and pressed the edges together firmly all around.
That's it! Once I made one, it was hard to stop!
So here are some of the many leatherette ones...
... and here are a few leather ones.
I couldn't help playing about with stitching the edges on a couple of them, both by hand and machine, with varying degrees of success. The hand stitched one below is leather and I used an awl to mark the holes beforehand. I quite like that one. The machine stitched one is leatherette and I had to use a piping foot for this. It was a bit fiddly as there isn't enough fabric under the presser foot for the feed dogs to grab onto. I'll let you decide whether this is worth bothering with. I think I prefer mine without the stitching after all. I'm happy as long as the glue holds.
All in all, a very satisfying project and very useful outcome.
I really hope you enjoy making these and if you do, please share and tag with #DDpatternweights on your instagram or other socials - would love to see your take on them.
Have a lovely time creating and thank you for being there,
Dhurata x
P.S. The pattern weights in action ; )
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It's been a while since posting here on things I make and do... but, I've had a lovely day today and I thought I'd share some of that sparkle with you! Not normally a very sparkly person, but I was having a moment the other day and decided to gather all the suitably shiny pieces of fabric from my collection (I managed THREE!) and make some star-shaped scatter cushions. I think I was rather enthusiastic and whipped them up too quickly, forgetting to take any photos along the way. Shame... although I did make a pattern and draw some diagrams for you. It's a super easy make, so I know you'll manage just fine. I think these cushions are such fun to make and have around, you'll want to make one for each corner of your house and each person on your holiday gift list - big or small! I hope you have at least one person in your life deserving of a gold star!
Click HERE to download the PDF pattern. Print at 100% scale or actual size (not scale to fit setting). It will print on both A4 and US letter size paper.
This pattern is free for personal use only. You may share the link to the blog post on your social channels or with friends, but please do not share the pattern file itself.
You will need:
- 65-75cm of fabric or use up your scraps
- toy stuffing (I reused the polyester filling from some square cushions)
Seam allowances are included throughout at 1cm (3/8")
Use the suggested cutting layout below or ignore it completely if using scraps, but do keep to the grainline if possible.
As you can see, there's two suggested cutting layouts for two different widths of fabric.
The idea was to make the back of the cushion from one whole piece and the front of the cushion from five points sewn together, although you can simply cut both front and back from the same back pattern piece and call it a day.
To join the front pieces together, place two of them on top of one another right sides facing. Align the edges, pin and sew one straight side up to the centre point only. Press the seam allowance open.
Continue adding the other three pieces until you have a complete five-point star and press seam allowances open as you go along.
Place the back on top of the front right sides facing, pin and sew all around with a shorter than normal stitch. Remember to leave an opening.
I would not suggest clipping the seam allowance anywhere as you normally would on a garment - it is not necessary and would only weaken the seams at the corners. Turn it right side out and push all the points out properly. Fill with toy stuffing to your desired density then hand-stitch the opening shut.
That's it... that's all I did, but you can add your own touch to it - add piping, colour block it, embroider, monogram it, etc. Most of all, enjoy it!
Remember to tag with #DDsuperstarcushion if posting on social media.
Happy sewing to you all and take care out there,
Dhurata x
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It seems that the UK has inevitably caught up with the latest face mask sewing trend and I've seen lots of them made and posted online in the last few days.
I can imagine most of you know by now that fabric face masks or 'face coverings' are not medical grade masks and are only to be used by members of the public according to the relevant government advice in an effort to contain the spread of the virus. Here in England, they will be compulsory in shops from Friday 24th July. If you use public transport or go shopping then you will need them, so please try and make them yourself (it's really much easier than it seems!) or buy from a local small business. You can reuse fabric face masks multiple times after washing them. Please avoid buying single use surgical ones which create harmful waste for the environment. We have enough of it as it is!
Having said that, I was playing the other day with a slightly different version of the original #DDfacemask and thought you might find it useful if I show you how.
If you've been making lots of them recently, you probably feel like mixing it up a little and using up different sewing supplies and techniques. For me, it was an effort to use up some colourful jersey leftovers and various types of binding I had in my studio. This is not an upgrade or a better version of the original pattern which I designed back in April, just a slightly different one that I thought some of you might like as an option, especially if you like bound edges (any quilters onboard this ship?). If you'd rather stick to the original pattern, please carry on as usual!
Otherwise...keep reading!
I used one outer layer of jersey for this version and one layer of woven fabric as lining. I wouldn't recommend doing it the other way around. I used double folded bias tape for one and jersey binding for the other and they both worked equally well. You will see in later pics how these turn into split ties. This is a somewhat simplified version without many options (no nose wire, filter pocket or elastic loop options!), but you do have to be familiar with bias binding for this.
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A COUPLE OF THINGS TO MENTION BEFOREHAND:
This pattern is free for personal use only and its reproduction or commercial use is prohibited! It is my intellectual property to which I own the rights and you should not sell face masks made using this pattern. I have made it available for you to make masks for yourself and donate to others who might need them, but you should not profit from my good will and the horrendous situation we've all found ourselves in.
In addition to this, please know that I will not be granting a licence or permission to anyone wanting to use this pattern for commercial use no matter the reason or personal circumstances, so please do not expect me to reply and explain this on endless emails as it is truly time consuming.
I hope you can appreciate this and will understand the reason why I've had to add it here so clearly.
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PATTERN FILES AND OTHER INFO
- Please note that this is a modified pattern from the original one to suit this style with bound top and bottom edges and split ties. You can download these files by clicking HERE!
- Print the pattern at 100% scale or actual size, (not scale to fit or any such setting on your printer). This will print on both A4 or US letter size. You do not need to print both pages as the pattern is exactly the same. I provided the two pages on metric and imperial grid for those of you unable to print it at home, in which case you can use the grid to draw the pattern yourself on a piece of paper.
- Sizing and size guide are the same as the original tutorial which you can find here
- Please use the hashtag #DDfacemask2 and #dhuratadaviespatterns when posting on social media so others can find it.
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CONSTRUCTION OF FACE MASK WITH BOUND EDGES
Cut two layers on the fold - one out of jersey for the outer and one out of woven fabric for the lining. (time saving tip: if you cut them from the wrong side, they'll be ready for the dart construction)
Dart construction is the same as the original #DDfacemask so please check the original blog post for the instructions on this... then move on to the next step down below.
After sewing the darts on both pieces, place the two layers with right sides facing, align and pin the side edges only.
Sew with a 1cm (3/8 of an inch) seam allowance.
Turn it the right way out and press the side edges flat.
Align the edges of the two layers along the top and bottom and baste/tack to keep these in place during the next step.
I used 2cm wide double folded bias tape for this one and jersey binding for the other one. You need 2 x 80-85-90-95-100cm pieces respectively for the various sizes.
If making your own woven binding, which I did, it has to be cut on the bias (diagonally) as it needs to stretch when attaching it in the next step... so it can't be a strip of fabric cut on a straight grain. You can use ready made bias binding, too, if you happen to have any available. I do prefer using up different colours and patterns from my own fabric scraps though.
Jersey binding is usually cut on the grain as it's naturally stretchy. It is available from lots of shops on Etsy. I don't make that myself, I draw the line there I'm afraid, just too fiddly! (although, just writing this last sentence feels like I'm setting myself a challenge...)
You can use clips if you have them or regular pins, both will work just fine. Start by finding the middle of the bias tape, align with the nose dart and sandwich the raw edges of the mask in between the tape. Pin or use a clip here then slightly stretch the tape as you work your way towards the sides. Repeat this with the other length of tape for the bottom of the mask.
Use a medium zig zag stitch on your machine to sew them up, starting from one end of the tape to the other.
If you want to neaten the ends of the tape, just fold the short edges in...
... then fold the tape back together and stitch. Not the end of the world if you don't do this, btw!
They will hopefully look something like this when you're done. As you can see you end up with split ties - top set goes over your ears to be tied at the back/top of your head, and bottom set to be tied at the back of your neck.
Let me know how you get on and try to enjoy the process.
Take care, stay safe and keep sewing, Dx
]]>24 May, 2020
I thought I’d show you a quick way to add length to the Cora Tee pattern, which is what I did last week. Yes, yes, I know... it was before the pattern was even released yet, but it’s too good an opportunity to miss and I just couldn’t help it! I thought you deserved and needed to know.
I’ll show you what to do with the front piece.
Trace the front piece on a large sheet of paper (pattern paper, roll of wallpaper, your kids' Ikea easel paper roll, stick some printer paper together... anything you have available.
Make sure to mark the waistline properly, as this is where you will add length from. Ignore everything below that.
It's completely up to you how long you make it. I wanted this particular one to be knee length, with no vents and straight hem. So, I measured and calculated that I needed to add 60cm from the waistline. That includes the 3cm for the hem. As you can see, after marking the 60 cm from the waist, I've just simply squared down from the side waist. So, that's the front piece done. It's, of course, always a good idea to transfer the pattern markings, size, etc., for next time.
I did the same with the back pattern piece and adjusted the length of the contrasting back panel accordingly.
When constructing it, I followed the same steps as per the pattern instructions, apart from anything to do with the vents, and hemmed it in the round. I turned 3cm up for the hem.
Here it is:
You can, of course, use this as a starting point to make it shorter, longer, a maxi with vents up to the knees, go a little wider at the bottom, etc. Lots of room to play. I will update this post with any future versions I come up with, but below is another one I made at the same time last week. This is shorter by 7cm and I added a simple belt as a total afterthought, which I actually really love.
I hope you find this useful and you feel inspired to come up with your own Cora Tee versions and hacks.
Both these lovely jersey fabrics, as well as the contrast on the green version, were from lamazifabrics.com and are perfect for this pattern.
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09 July, 2020
I recently made the Cora Tee with a woven front as well as centre back panel. I didn't actually have to make any modifications to the pattern pieces. It worked perfectly! Just had to make sure that I finished all the raw edges appropriately because, unlike jersey fabric, the woven edges will definitely fray if left unfinished.
I used a combination of a Nani Iro cotton/silk mix from https://drapersdaughter.com/ (it feels divine!!!)
and a bamboo jersey from https://www.moodfabrics.com/ (last year's trip to NYC!).
Here's the result:
Take care and keep sewing,
Dhurata x
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The seam allowance is 1cm (3/8 of an inch) and is included in the pattern!
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PLEASE NOTE: This pattern is for personal use only and its reproduction or commercial use is prohibited! Despite the famous quote that 'imitation is the sincerest form of flattery', this pattern is intellectual property to which I own the rights. You should not sell face masks made using this pattern. I have made it available for you to make masks for yourself and donate to others who might need them, but you should not profit from my good will and the horrendous situation we've all found ourselves in. I hope you can appreciate this and will understand the reason why I've had to add this here so clearly. Thank you! (01.05.2020) --- In addition to this, I will not be granting a licence or permission to anyone wanting to use this pattern for commercial use no matter the reason or personal circumstances, so please, please do not expect me to reply and explain this on endless emails as it is truly time consuming. I'd rather use that time more productively, by improving the pattern and adding features that have been requested or answer many questions from people who are making face masks for free to help others. (24.05.2020)
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UPDATE 1: please check the bottom of this blog post for info on how to insert a wire! (24.04.2020)
UPDATE 2: please check the bottom of this blog post for the optional filter pocket instructions. I have updated the original pattern to reflect this and I also sized up to include XL. Apart from slight polishing of corners, the shape of the pattern is otherwise unchanged, so you can continue to use the original print out unless you want to add a filter or make size XL (24.05.2020)
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Please print the pattern at 100% scale or actual size, (not scale to fit or any such setting on your printer). This will print on both A4 or US letter size. Please also note that you do not need to print both pages as the pattern is exactly the same. I only provided the two pages on metric and imperial grid for those of you unable to print it at home. In which case you can use the grid to draw the pattern yourself on a piece of paper.
I know there are quite a few perfectly good mask patterns out there already that are possibly even easier to sew, but I like the precise fit of this one at the nose and chin, which ensures that it stays in place without needing to be adjusted once it’s on.
I wrote the tutorial to show you how to make this with three thin layers of cotton fabric - two woven and one knit T-shirt fabric. I used the woven fabrics for the outer layer and lining, and the t-shirt fabric for interlining (sandwiched between the outer layer and lining). The combination of three layers has been suggested as a helpful alternative to the N95 masks, which provide the appropriate level of protection against Covid-19. These are as you all know in high demand and there's a huge shortage. Fabric masks provide no guarantee and are not by any means a replacement for N95 masks so you should not be relaxing your social distancing habits when wearing it. The mask will need washing and ironing after each wear to avoid contamination. Please read about it, do your own research and make up your own mind whether this is something you will find helpful through this surreal time in our lives. I am in no position to recommend these. I am putting this out there since I’ve already created the pattern for myself and my family and wanted to share it in the off chance that someone might find it helpful, which would be totally worth it. So, here goes…
You will need:
1 x outer layer of light/medium weight woven cotton fabric, 40cm x 20cm
1 x interlining of lightweight T-shirt fabric 30cm x 20cm (you can use an unwanted clean T-shirt)
1 x lining of light/medium weight woven cotton fabric, 30cm x 20cm
If your fabrics are a little heavier weight, you can skip the third inner layer and just make it with one outer layer and one lining.
To chose your size, you need to measure from the tip of your nose to your chin. The approximate nose to chin measurements for the five sizes I've provided are below:
XS - 6.5cm
S - 7.5cm
M - 8.5cm
L - 9.5cm
XL 10.5cm (this size was added to the PDF pattern on 24.05.2020)
Fold each piece of fabric in half with right sides facing and cut one of each layer on the fold. When cutting the interlining and lining make sure you fold the pattern piece on the dotted line so these two are narrower than the outer layer.
Finger press the centre fold to make a slight crease.
With all three still folded in half right sides facing, pin the chin darts first and sew with a 1cm seam allowance. You can also mark the seam allowance before pinning.
Snip the seam allowance at the tip of each dart so you can press them open.
Fold the darts at the tips towards the centre creases with right sides facing.
Mark a line perpendicular with the dart and centre crease on each layer. The length of the line should be as follows for your chosen size: 2.5cm for XS, 3cm for S, 3.5cm for M and 4cm for L.
Sew along this line making sure to backstitch either end. This will create a T-shaped dart for the chin.
Fold each layer at the centre crease again with right sides facing. Pin and sew the nose darts with a 1cm seam allowance.
Snip the seam allowance at the nose dart tip and press it open.
Place the outer layer and the interlining together with wrong sides facing, align the top and bottom raw edges only and pin.
Sew these edges together with a basting stitch at slightly less than 1cm seam allowance.
Place the lining on top of the outer layer with right sides facing, aligning the top and bottom raw edges only. Pin and sew these edges together with a 1cm seam allowance.
Turn the mask right side out with the interlining layer sandwiched in between the outer fabric and lining.
Press the sewn edges flat with an iron and trim any threads.
Turn first 0.5cm then 1.5cm of the raw edges on the outer layer. Pin and sew close to the first folded edge.
This will form the channels for either a ribbon or elastic to be inserted through.
I had some previously made double-folded bias tape in the same fabric as the outer layer so I decided to use it up.
I folded it in half lengthways and sewed it into a ribbon. This needs to be about 120cm long to allow for tying it at the back. Same length would apply to any thin ribbon you might have in your sewing supply stash.
Attach a safety pin to one end of the ribbon and insert it through from the top on one side, then from the bottom on the other side.
Tie a knot at either end of the ribbon.
Please be aware that, like anything else tied around the neck of a young child, this could potentially be unsafe and you may want to consider other methods, like elastic around the ears instead. Or maybe split ties made with strips of stretchy fabric. In any case, please don't leave young ones unsupervised while wearing them.
If you’re using elastic, it doesn’t need to be any more than 80cm long even for the largest size. This will depend on the type of elastic as well. Try it on for size then tie the elastic ends together into a knot.
A few more examples below, where I used different types of elastic:
Let me know if you make one and found it useful. Tag #DDfacemask on social media.
Most importantly, I hope you're all staying safe, keeping busy and being creative.
Dhurata x
Click on the link to check out the latest UK government advice on STAYING SAFE OUTSIDE YOUR HOME! and especially the section on face coverings!
UPDATE 1: HOW TO INSERT A WIRE FOR THE NOSE BRIDGE!
This is something I meant to add here as an option if you wish to insert a wire. I know a few of you have already done so in order to stop glasses from fogging. This way seems easiest to me as it doesn't require any additional materials apart from the wire itself. Cut a piece of preferably aluminium wire (or straighten a paper clip if desperate) then make a tiny loop either end of it. After sewing all the layers together and with the mask still inside out, attach the wire directly onto the top (nose end) seam allowance. You will need to anchor the wire loops well so it doesn't shift. I did all this carefully on the machine using a zigzag stitch but you can also sew it by hand. Turn the mask right side out and carry on as per the rest of the instructions.
Another way to do it would be to make a channel for the wire within the seam allowance by sewing a straight stitch in the middle, inserting the wire in between the two seams, then stitching the sides shut. Again, turn the mask right side out and continue. I hope it helps!
UPDATE 2: HOW TO ADD A FILTER POCKET
Use the updated pattern to cut one outer layer, one lining and one filter pocket. You need to fold the pattern piece along the corresponding dotted lines for lining and pocket. These three fabrics should all be lightweight woven cottons. I used Liberty lawn fabric for outer and filter layer, and a cotton poplin for the lining. My thinking is that if the fabric is too thick, it might be hard to breathe after adding the filter as well. I'm not sure what would be a good material to use as the actual filter. There's lots of theories out there, so do your own research and decide whatever seems reasonable to you. I'm no expert on this and am not adding it here as a recommendation, but simply providing instructions on how to construct the filter pocket to this pattern in the simplest and most effective way I can think of right now. It's been requested many times and I hate letting you struggle to accomplish this. So, here's how I would do it:
Press first 4-5mm, then 5-6mm of both side raw edges of pocket layer towards the wrong side then pin.
Stitch close to the first folded edge.
With both layers right side up, place the filter pocket on top of the lining and pin top and bottom raw edges only as shown above.
Baste/tack along these four segments to prevent the two layers from shifting on the next step.
Treating these two layers as one now, fold in half right sides facing...
...and construct the darts as per the original instructions. Having constructed the darts for these two layers together, I've eliminated the annoying possibility of the filter riding up towards the nose or down under the chin.
You may snip that corner if you find it's too bulky at the chin. (Ignore the two rows of stitches on the chin dart above - I just a corrected a mistake!)
Now, this is a totally optional fancy bit, but if you, like Peter Lappin want to make this mask making malarky a less miserable experience and learn some construction techniques along the way, then just ride with it if you've got time. The end result is definitely more refined. Peter used a perfectly adequate technique on his blog post, but I'm adding mine here, so you get to choose. Before sewing the outer and lining together, trim the lining (as well as filter pocket in this case) by a couple of millimetres along the top and bottom raw edges. This will ensure the outer fabric is pulled towards the back a little when you turn the mask right way out, so the lining is not visible from the front.
Prepare the outer layer as per the original instructions and place the lining on top of it with right sides facing. Align the darts first then the rest of top and bottom raw edges, pin and sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Turn it the right way out, press out all the edges and create the tie/elastic channels either side.
I made a size M and this 11cm x 7cm rectangle made out of card seems to fit perfectly in the space inside the pocket, although you can definitely add to the 7cm to use up all the available space.
I have not tested the other sizes so please play with these dimensions a little to fit in the size you're making.
I used cord elastic and tied it at the bottom this time.
Even though I doubt I'll be inserting a filter on mine, this is not much different to the original three layer and it's in fact incredibly comfortable to wear due to the lightweight fabric I used. It makes a huge difference in my ability to breathe easily while wearing it.
I hope this satisfies the filter pocket fans out there and let me know how you get on. If there's anything else you'd like to know, just drop me a line.
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PHOTOS: If you would like to share a photo of your makes with me outside of social media, please email them to info@dhuratadavies.com - would love to see them!
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QUESTIONS IN COMMENTS ANSWERED! (28.05.2020)
This blog system will not allow me to reply to a comment! Annoying as it is, I can't change it. So, I've decided to answer down here anything mentioned in comments that I think will be of value to others and that hasn't been covered by the tutorial so far. I have emailed many of you individually with an answer so far, but sometimes I've had emails bounce back, etc., so if you've asked a relevant question, I'll try and answer it below within a couple of days.
- you can download the pattern by clicking the word "...here" just under the first cluster of photos. (this is a common question)
- This cloth face mask fits snug to the face. There's no plan to insert boning to the front of it. It would defeat the purpose of having no seam at the front, but I'm sure there's other designs that will allow for this.
- length of elastic for ear loops: my ears don't like the elastic loops, but I know some people prefer them. I made one to try in the beginning and the length of elastic was 17cm for each side. I inserted the elastic through the channels, overlapped the ends by 1cm and stitched them into a loop. I pulled the seamed joints inside the channel. That length (17cm) worked perfectly for size M. I have not tried the other sizes but can estimate it would be a difference of 1cm in between sizes. This may vary on individual faces so if you're making them for people in your home, it's best to test the length before stitching the loops. (11.06.2020)
- there is no plan to create additional sizes for this pattern, especially not for smaller children. (24.06.2020)
- yes, you can topstitch the top and bottom edges after turning the face mask right side out and before you sew the side channels.
- for an absolute beginner friendly video tutorial on how to make this mask, my very loyal customer and amazing fellow sewist, Alex Judge has created two YouTube videos. Click on the links below to watch. You have to watch the first before you watch the second for the filter pocket.
face mask with nose wire video tutorial
and
face mask with filter pocket video tutorial
(29.06.2020)
- 1cm is approx 3/8 of an inch (13.07.2020)
- (24.07.2020) - Beard adjustment suggestion! Please note, no beard is equal and none were used (or available even!!!) to try this adjustment on, but I'm pretty confident it would work... although it may need individual adjustments beyond my virtual capability here! For, example the horizontal chin dart might need to be wider, etc. Play with it and see how you get on.
To start, slice the pattern horizontally just below the side channel and drop it down by the amount needed. Re-draw the front centre line then adjust the under-the-chin line and cut the excess off (marked with red X on photo).
The 2cm amount I’ve added and the XL size is just an example, you can add a bit more or less and use the appropriate size for the face. The amount you add should be about the amount that the beard extends down from chin, beyond the nose-to-chin measurement. Without being rude to any long beards out there though, I think there is a limit to how long you can successfully make this face mask. I don't think you can cover a beard that extends more than a few centimetres down from the chin and I would even question the effectiveness of it, as well!
Good luck, I hope this helps to get you started!
- (04.09.2020) - yes, you can snip the little corner formed after sewing the horizontal chin dart if you wish. I mostly don't as I found it makes no significant difference.
- 14.09.2021 - download the black and white pattern file for the facemask here if you've run out of colour ink on your printer : )
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Scrub hats!!! Anyone making them? Just drafted a pattern as I wanted to make one for a doctor friend and, as usual, since I did the work and digitised the pattern, I also took photos of the process and I'm sharing it all here. Feel free to share the link to this blog anywhere you like for people to find it, but please don't share/post the pattern file itself.
Please make sure you print the pdf at 100% scale or actual size on your printer. Please also note that you do not need to print all four pages as the pattern is exactly the same. Just print 1 and 2. I only provided the pages on metric and imperial grid for those of you unable to print it at home. In which case you can use the grid to draw the pattern yourself on a piece of paper.
Seam allowance is included at 1cm (3/8").
I used odd scraps of fabric so I have not calculated any fabric amounts for you I'm afraid. Although, I can imagine 45-50cm of any quilting weight fabric would be more than enough (roughly 1/2 yard).
You need to cut two of each layer on the fold, one of each section for the outer fabric and one for the lining. I used a cotton print for the outer layer and since I only had a limited amount and not enough to cut the top section on the fold, I added seam allowance to the centre, so I could join two pieces together without compromising the shape/size.
I had enough fabric left from making scrubs to use for the lining.
You do not need to do this if you have enough fabric, just showing you how I joined the top section so when you see the photos with a joint there, you'll know why.
Make sure to transfer all the notches.
Align the edges marked with a dashed line on the pattern, first pin the centre and side notches then continue all around.
Sew these edges together with a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance on each layer.
Place the lining on top of the outer fabric with right sides facing and align the back edges on both layers.
I am missing the actual photos for this step, so I made an illustration for it. Pin and sew together the back edges only.
Turn over and fold the two layers on top of one another with wrong sides facing now. Press the seam that you just stitched and topstitch a couple of millimetres from the edge. Align and pin together the remaining raw edges of the two layers.
Stitch about 5mm (3/16") from the edge with a basting stitch or a running stitch by hand, just to keep the two layers from shifting.
Cut a 5cm (2") wide strip of fabric. I cut across the whole width of the fabric, which is about 112cm (44") wide, and that eliminated the need for finishing the ends of the binding strip - I let the selvedge do its thing. You can also use bias binding for this step if you have any, but if making your own, just cut the fabric on the grain, no need to waste any.
Press 1cm (3/8") of one long edge towards the wrong side. The fabric I used is double sided so unfortunately you don't see which is the wrong side.
Find the middle of the binding strip and align it with the centre of the side section. Pin the raw edge of the binding strip to the raw edge of the hat on the lining side, with right sides facing. Sew with a 1cm seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance towards the binding strip then fold and press 1cm (3/8") of the other long edge towards the wrong side.
Fold and press the whole binding strip in half lengthways, making sure the newly pressed edge just covers the previous stitch.
Pin all around and stitch a couple of millimetres from the pressed edges.
All done!
I tried it on and it fits perfectly, but wasn't sure about photos of me with it on the way my hair is looking right now... so you get to see this polystyrene dummy head that I covered with a section of some old leggings. It, otherwise has a badly crumbled nose underneath!
I hope this will be a useful addition to my recent bout of blog posts. If you make it and are happy (or unhappy!) with it, do let me know. If posting on social media, please tag with #DDscrubhat and #dhuratadaviespatterns - would love to see them!
Take care and keep sewing!
Dhurata x
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It's a simple drawstring bag, but I'm going to show you in detail the way I do it. I like to enclose each raw edge of a seam allowance for durability. No overlocker/serger needed, just a straight stitch on the sewing machine and an iron for pressing.
I thought I'd post this here for anyone wanting to make drawstring bags as part of the effort to help the NHS staff here in the UK. They use these bags to place their used scrubs in and carry them home with, instead of plastic bags. There's been a huge demand for them in the last few weeks.
Although, as I said, it's just a neatly made drawstring bag that you can make for any purpose or anyone, anywhere in the world.
You will need two 45x45cm squares of cotton or linen fabric and 2m of some sort of tape/string/ties. You can play with these measurements depending on the fabric amount you have and your requirements.
Place the two squares of fabric right sides together. Mark a 2cm seam allowance and pin the sides starting 5cm away from the top edge. You need to sew from the 5cm point (making sure to back stitch a few times here) and all the way down.
Press the seam allowances open.
Fold the raw edge of the seam allowance under...
...and press.
Repeat on the other side so you end up with all the raw edges of the side seam allowances turned under and pressed flat.
Stitch near the folded edges.
Turn the bag right side out and pin the bottom raw edges together.
Stitch with a 5mm seam allowance.
Turn the bag to the wrong side, pick the corners out and press flat.
Sew the bottom seam again with a 1cm seam allowance. If you haven't noticed, you just did a french seam.
Now you need to create the drawstring channels. Press first 1cm then 2cm of the top edges to the wrong side. This will line up with the start of the side seams.
It will look like this from the sides.
Stitch all around just under 2cm from the folded edge making sure to catch the first folded edge underneath.
You can reinforce the middle with a tight zigzag stitch if you like.
Attach a safety pin to the end of one string (tape/tie/cord, whatever you have) and insert it through all the way around. Tie the two ends together into a knot. You can stop right here or insert another piece of string from the opposite side. I find having two strings helps, especially if you're trying to avoid touching the bag when pulling the two strings from either side.
If you decide to use use a second string, just start inserting it from the other side, all the way around and then tie the two ends together into a knot.
That's it, a neatly finished and durable drawstring bag!
I hope you will find this useful.
Dhurata x
]]>I have so many tiny fabric scraps and I have been thinking of fun projects to use them up for, especially things you can make with or for children. This project is the fabric lovers' alternative to egg painting this Easter. I've only done egg painting a few times and I have to say it's not my favourite thing to do and even my kids were never that into it. This on the other hand was quite successful and my 9 year old finds it highly suitable for practising ball throwing in the house - 'it's perfect, it's too soft to break anything', he says... 'hmmmmm', I say!!!
Anyhow, don't waste your precious eggs. Here's what you need for one egg:
- the jumbo easter egg pattern (click to download)
- scraps of fabric cut into 55 strips of about 10cm x 3cm
The pattern comes in two pages, but you only need to print one of them. I provided one with metric and one with imperial grid for anyone who's not able to print and could therefore use the grid to draw the pattern on a sheet of paper. Print at '100% scale' or 'actual size' setting on your printer. If you print it on a different scale, you will get a different size egg (which is perfectly fine by the way!) but your fabric requirements and seam allowances will be different and might cause a bit of a head-scratch while making it. So just be aware of that and adjust accordingly. It will print on both A4 and US letter size.
Play with the strips of fabric and lay them in any order you like to make 5 colourful blocks. I did not overthink this bit too much, as I'm sure you can see!
Tip: Use a ruler of some sort to scoop the sections of prearranged strips and carry them to your sewing station.
When sewing the strips together keep to a 5mm seam allowance. That's all you need. Start by putting two strips right sides facing and sewing together on one long side. Open it flat and continue to add strips one by one to one side. You need 11 strips for each section, but that's if you stick to the recommended seam allowance. If it ends up too short, just keep adding more fabric, no problem.
Press all seam allowances together to one side.
Use the horizontal line on the pattern to level it with the strips.
Cut away the sides as precisely as possible.
You will have 5 sections.
Mark the top and bottom point on the wrong side of each fabric section. You will use this to start and finish each seam that will join the 5 sections together. So, only stitch from top point to bottom point, not to the edge of the fabric.
Join two sections on one side only with a 1cm seam allowance. This is marked on the pattern piece. After joining the first two sections together on one side, rotate that seam to your left and fold one of the sections in half to expose the right side of the other section.
Place a third section on top and pin the top and bottom on the marked points. Sew the two sections together only on the right hand side.
Continue until you join all 5 sections together. You can use a pin to keep the sides you fold to the left out of the way. Don't forget to leave an opening when you sew the last section. This is marked clearly on the pattern piece.
Turn the 'eggshell' right side out through the opening. I like to finger press the seam allowance back to the wrong side around the opening and baste it by hand to stop it from fraying when stuffing it.
I had some toy stuffing for this, but you can use tiny fabric scraps, wool, or a combination of all the above. Anything you might have available.
Once happy with its shape and fullness, pin and sew the opening by hand.
That's it! You now have a pretty and colourful egg you can toss around forever... and ever... which should measure about 14cm (5 1/2 inch) in height.
This is just one of the many ways of doing this. You can make up the sections in any way you like, they don't have to be strips put together neatly. They can be any shape or even just 5 pieces of fabric in different colours. As long as you have 5 blocks that measure about 10cm x 22cm, from which you can then cut out your egg sections. The possibilities are truly endless! They would make great Easter gifts, too!
I hope you and your little ones enjoy these. Please share photos if you make some and tag #dhuratadaviespatterns and #DDjumboeasteregg
Take care everyone and please stay safe.
Dhurata x
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I’ve been experimenting with these for a while and have made quite a few in different shapes and sizes over the years. A few weeks ago, a friend asked me to make some for her yoga students. I wanted these to be a little different from the usual pillow shaped ones at most yoga studios, so decided to make it a bit more eyewear-shaped. This was all bad timing though, as they were almost ready when isolation and social distancing came upon us, so they will now have to be enjoyed by her students at a later date. That, however, doesn’t mean that you lovely lot can’t enjoy them at home while isolating yourselves, so, here goes…
You will need:
- the free eye bag pattern - click to download and print at '100%' or 'actual size' printer setting, not 'scale to fit' setting or anything like that. Check the test square if not sure. The pattern should print fine on both A4 and letter size.
- a piece of fabric about 50cm x 15cm in size for the outer layer and the same amount for the inner bag (use scraps of fabric or mix and match if necessary, anything goes!)
- 2 little squares 2cm x 2cm of sew-on hook and loop fastener (velcro type)
- about 30 grams of dried lavender
- about 100-120 grams of any dry grain, like rice or pulses - whole mung beans being my favourite as they are small and round. Feel free to play with these amounts to your preference. I used brown rice for this one in the absence of mung beans and that works perfectly well.
I had some Liberty tana lawn for the outer and a plain cotton poplin fabric for the inner.
Follow the steps below to construct the eye bag:
1. Cut 2 from outer fabric using pattern piece 1. You can use any woven fabric out of soft natural fibre for this, preferably washable as this will be the removable cover. I will be sticking to cotton or linen as I’d like to be able to apply a hot iron to it after every wash, too. (This last bit was fuelled by the current paranoia!) Please remember to transfer the placement of hook and loop fastener to the placket on both pieces.
2. Finish the placket edges only, using a zigzag stitch or overlocker.
3. Place the two hook fastener squares to the right side on one of the pieces of outer fabric and the two loop fastener squares to the right side on the other piece of outer fabric. Sew them with a zigzag stitch on all four sides.
4. Place these two pieces of fabric together with right sides facing and sew all around with a 1cm seam allowance, but leave the top of placket open.
5. Turn it right way out and give it a quick press.
6. Cut 2 from inner bag fabric using pattern piece 2. This can be any light/medium weight woven fabric. You will only ever see it when you remove the outer cover to wash so it needn’t be pretty. If your outer fabric is light coloured or a bit transparent, then try using something plain that’s a similar shade to the outer.
7. Place these two pieces of fabric together with right sides facing and sew all around with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a 10cm opening for turning and filling.
8. Press open the seam allowance of the top edge towards the bag on either side. This is just prep for the next step when you sew the bag shut. (you will thank me!)
9. Turn the bag right way out and fill it with the lavender and grain mixture.
10. Align and pin together the two previously pressed edges of the opening. Sew a couple of millimetres from the edge with a straight stitch, or if you’re keen to practise some slow stitching, sew it by hand using a tight ladder stitch.
11. Place the lavender filled bag inside the outer casing with the plackets fastened together and tucked in to one side.
That’s it, your DIY aromatherapeutic eye bag is ready to be enjoyed! I use mine at the end of each yoga practice, but I should really have one by my bedside as well.
I hope you enjoy making and using this. It would make a lovely present, too. Please let me know if you make one and tag your makes with #DDeyebag
Be safe everyone, stay home and keep sewing,
Dhurata x
]]>As promised, here's an easy way to modify the sleeve on the Maxine Sweater pattern as I did in my last make I posted on Instagram/Facebook page.
I widened and lengthened the sleeve but left out the cuffs. As you can see from the pattern piece below, I made the width at the cuff as wide as it is at the bicep (armpit?). No changes were made to the sleeve cap.
I also added 7,5cm to the length, which includes the 3cm I folded up for hemming. The amount you add to the length may vary depending on your arm length and also your sleeve length preference, so please test this.
With the sleeve being so wide now, it was never going to have to stretch to fit my arm so I decided to hem it with three rows of regular straight stitch instead of using any stretch stitches. I love the way this looks and no coverstitch machine necessary. (Just as well, since I don't actually have one!!!)
The fabric I used for this is a beautiful french terry sweater knit fabric from faberwood.com and I'm so in love with it. This will definitely be a favourite item in my wardrobe.
I used the same sleeve modification when I made a Maxine Sweater with elasticated cuffs in blush teddy coat fabric . I did exactly the same but left a 2-3cm opening when hemming it, in order to feed the elastic through. This was a little while ago, but I believe the elastic was about 1.5cm wide. I've worn this loads and the sleeve variation just gives a different, more delicate feel to the garment.
If you haven't tried the pattern already and you'd like to give it a go, you can find it on my website in paper or digital format. (15 March, 2020)
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Sweater to woven T-shirt hack! (11 July, 2020)
Here's another thing I tried with this pattern. I used a linen fabric for the body and sleeves to make a T-shirt. I wasn't sure about the colour of the linen to start with so I used a bright orange jersey for the neckband and cuffs to add some interest. I think this worked really well and am really pleased how it turned out. Here's a list of the changes i made to the pattern:
- I shortened the sleeves. This can be any length you like, but mine measured 9cm on the inseam.
- I added jersey cuffs, same width as the neckband piece. I measured my upper arm to determine the length of the cuff pieces and only added 2cm to this measurement for seam allowance.
- I skipped the waistband and used binding as facing instead, which i made from the main linen fabric. (see last photo)
- no other changes to the pattern pieces.
This makes a lovely boxy woven t-shirt. I think I may make a few more of these for the summer.
Stay safe and happy sewing,
Dhurata x
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I've made a couple of short videos to help you with the plastic poppers on the Penny Romper pattern. Although, these instructions apply to any garment you'd like to place them on. The first video will show you how to install them and the second one will show you how to remove them if you happen to install them on the wrong side of the garment or wrong place altogether.
Installing the poppers!
Here's what you need: size 20 T5 plastic poppers/snaps, the relevant popper/snap pliers and a tapered awl or similar tool to help you mark the hole
Plastic poppers come in two parts - one part is made up of one cap and one female popper and the other part is made up of one cap and one male popper. (Don't ask why they're called that! I really wish I had a better name for them...)
The pliers I'm using are KAM pliers and i bought them from ebay, but there's other kinds and brands you can explore, just make sure that they are the right kind for the poppers you're using. (search 'kam snap pliers' 'plastic poppers and pliers' 'snap fasteners', etc)
The video has no sound, but I've tried to make it as slow and self explanatory as possible so you should be ok. Just click on the link below:
Removing the poppers!
If you happen to place the poppers on the wrong side, don't panic! Here's how to remove them safely without causing too much (if any) damage to the fabric. Please be careful not to hurt yourself with whatever tool you decide to use! There's probably a special tool for this particular task, but I like to use those little cuticle trimmers meant for your nails. They are just the right size to get in the centre of the poppers where the flattened point of the cap needs to be removed. You can use any other tiny cutting pliers if you think they're small and precise enough. Click on the link below to see how:
I hope you find these videos helpful.
This pattern is available in paper and PDF format - click here for paper or here for the PDF!
Happy making,
Dhurata x
]]>This is a quick and easy, stash-busting sewing project and a lovely gift idea if you’d like to surprise someone with an oven glove that matches their kitchen colours (or in my case, just an urge to re-fashion husband's old jeans).
]]>This is a quick and easy, stash-busting sewing project and a lovely gift idea if you’d like to surprise someone with an oven glove that matches their kitchen colours (or in my case, just an urge to re-fashion husband's old jeans).
You’ll need the free oven glove pattern (click to download)
2 x 30cm pieces of contrasting fabrics (or if you’re a quilter, 2x fat quarters will be more than enough!), and
30cm of insulating wadding. You can find this in most fabric and craft stores or websites. (If in a rush you can also use a couple of layers of cotton wadding instead!)
Please make sure you print the pdf at 100% scale otherwise you might lose some of the content or end up with a really tiny/huge oven glove. Unless you’d like to do that intentionally, of course!
Please also note that you do not need to print all four pages as the pattern is exactly the same. Just print 1 and 2. I only provided the pages on metric and imperial grid for those of you unable to print it at home. In which case you can use the grid to draw the pattern yourself on a piece of paper.
Cut the template along the outer solid line then use this to cut 2 pieces for each of the fabrics and the insulating wadding.
Lay the lining pieces side by side wrong sides up, place the insulating wadding shiny side up and then place the main fabric pieces on top with right sides up. Secure the three layers together with pins then quilt either by machine or by hand using your choice of pattern. I chose to follow the pattern of the fabric and formed diamond shapes with a contrasting pink thread. Once you’ve finished, make sure to snip any loose threads.
Lay the two quilted pieces on top of one another with right sides together and pin along the edges.
Cut the paper template along the dashed line and use this to mark the stitch line on top. Stitch these together with a straight stitch around the sides but not the cuff opening! (Just thought I’d mention that…) Trim the seam allowance to 6mm, make a few snips just in the narrow curve between the fingers and the thumb and then zigzag around. Nearly there…
You’ll need a piece of fabric 30cm long and 5cm wide to bind the raw edge around the cuff opening. You can cut this on the bias if you wish but it’s not necessary so it can be cut on a straight grain. Join it to make a loop and pin around the cuff right sides facing on the lining side. Stitch leaving a 1cm seam allowance and then press away from the glove. Fold 1cm of the other edge of the binding towards the wrong side and then fold this over to bind the seam. Pin and topstitch along the inner edge… and there you have it – your very own handmade oven glove! Ready to bake : )
If you make it, I would love to see it, so please share and tag with #DDovenglove and #dhuratadaviespatterns
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